Ulysse Nardin

The high-end Swiss Ulysse Nardin make watches that are memorable, besides the calibers and complications, for their exquisite, artistic appearance. The mechanics vs. visuals dichotomy transpires in the brand's renown: among its most popular collections is the mechanically perfected Marine Diver, followed by the oriental Kremlin and Genghis Khan painterly pieces.

In a few words, no other luxury brand takes such a fluid, fearlessly exotic, and at the same time aesthetically consummate approach to watch design. It comes then as no surprise that a symbol signifying control over the element of water – an anchor, the ultimate marine instrument – adorns the brand's logo.

Background

Ulysse Nardin was started in 1846 by a young man carrying the same name; after a few decades the company became the world's leading manufacturer of marine chronometers, equipping navies across the planet. As the demand for mechanical precision instruments decreased due to technological progress, the company extended its focus to diver and complication watches, as well as rare enamelled and decorated museum pieces.

Movements

Ulysse Nardin is a true mechanical watchmaker. The brand produces in-house a wide range of calibers, from the most basic automatic (self-winding), usually used in the smaller jewelry pieces, to the most complicated. Complications include perpetual calendar, GMT, dual time, alarm (sonata cathedral), minute striker and hour striker, tourbillon, chronograph, and more.

The three astronomical pieces – Astrolabium, Planetarium and Tellurium – form UN's (and possibly the industry's) most exceptionally complicated collection. The complexity and depth of information provided is mind-boggling – positions of the stars, eclipses, moon sets and rises, perpetual calendars – and attests to Ulysse Nardin's watchmaking prowess.

Design

The most notable, and at the same time elusive design quality in Ulysse Nardin watches must be the fluidity. It reveals itself everywhere: the case, the font of the calendar numerals, the shape of the hands, the way all these elements combine and interact, and more. It would be unfair to say that the timepieces are “beautiful” – it's too general of a description. However, after having reviewed in-depth several leading (above mentioned) high-end companies, I tend to think that Ulysse Nardin make the most beautiful, in the strict aesthetic sense, watches.